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Wednesday, August 16, 2017
Terri-Lynn's Bar-B-Q Delicatessen (Little Rock, AR)
I wanted to go somewhere close and relatively easy for my first father/son barbecue outing. Quite a momentous occasion indeed, but going out to eat with a baby can be a real challenge when you're flying solo. Even though Terri-Lynn's Bar-B-Q didn't exactly get a ringing endorsement from my mother-in-law, it was very nearby and seemed like a good place to start.
There really isn't a whole lot to Terri-Lynn's, inside or out. It's snuggled away in a rather run-down shopping center, and I probably wouldn't have even noticed it had it not been for the prominent placement of their signage. Furnishings consist of some old diner-esque tables and chairs, surrounded by a half-dozen booths which are at least as old. Random hog-themed knickknacks dominated the decor, to be expected in central Arkansas I suppose. There was also a rather large display of IBC root beer for some reason. Oh well, barbecue doesn't need to be fancy, and it usually isn't.
Terri-Lynn's barbecue dinner plates are only listed as one-meaters, with no combos in sight. I doubled up on some sandwiches instead. At least I could pretend that one of them was for my son, despite the fact that he's only nine months old. I grabbed a chopped pork sandwich plate with bbq beans and potato salad, plus a brisket sandwich plate with deviled eggs and macaroni salad.
My sides of macaroni and potato salad were virtually indistinguishable, both in terms of taste and looks. Big hunks of pimento and a very creamy mayo base made their way into both salads, as well as more sugar than I care for. The beans were slightly spicy and very pleasant. In contrast to the mac and potatoes, they weren't overly sweet, which is definitely a good thing. The deviled eggs had a great visual appeal. Their nicely whipped filling was covered in paprika. I also found them somewhat zesty.
Like my side dishes, the pork and beef sandwiches looked eerily similar from the outset, largely because the brisket came chopped rather than sliced. I pinpointed the beef and tore in. It was very tender and very tasty, with good bark mixed throughout. There was a moderate smokiness to each bite, though some pieces were noticeably smokier than others. I missed out on the delicious brisket fat, likely an unfortunate byproduct of the chopping process, but I probably didn't need it anyway. I'm sure that my doctor would agree. Coleslaw added a nice crunch and a welcome sweetness to the sandwich, something you can't fully appreciate unless you get your barbecue sauceless.
The pork sandwich also had a nice helping of bark. It was even more well seasoned than the beef had been. Moist and juicy pork filled each bite I took, with hints of smoke evident as well. The smoke level was about on par with the brisket. I found the crunch of the slaw to be even more gratifying here, due to the pork's natural mushiness. The meat was a little crumbly for my liking, but that's really my only criticism.
If you're looking for a place with fabulous side dishes, then Terri-Lynn's Bar-B-Q Delicatessen probably isn't for you. Beans notwithstanding, of course. But what they lack in potato salad they more than make up for in meat. Terri-Lynn's is probably closer to a three-and-a-half star barbecue joint, but I don't do halfsies and I generally round up. Take that for what it is.
Terri-Lynn's Bar-B-Q Delicatessen
10102 Rodney Parham Rd
Little Rock, AR 72227